October 24 – Day 5 – Florence

October 24, 2008 – Day 5 – Florence - Picutures

• Awoke at 0800


• Ate what has become a standard Italian breakfast of assorted fruits, cheeses, breads and croissants served with juice and coffee


• Had 1000 tickets to see David at the Academy.


• Today there were no lines, so even though we had reserved tickets we did not need them. It would seem we might have wasted the money that we paid the hotel to get the reserved tickets.


• Either way, once we enter we see more paintings, which look a lot like what we saw in the Ufizzi yesterday.


• We then find our room into the back, where they have displayed musical instruments from the past. There are cellos from the 17^th century, clarinets, piccolo’s, French horns and even a few hurdy gurdy’s. We also a demonstration of different ways piano’s could be played; strummed like a guitar string or hit with a hammer. All things considered it was very interesting display.




• Finally we moved into the center of the gallery and there he stood in all his naked glory: DAVID. One of Michelangelo’s most well known and finest pieces in the entire world. It was simply a marvel to look at and gaze upon. Nancy and I stood there for at 5-10 minutes, even attempted to take a picture, before we (and a group of other people) were yelled at by the museum attendants telling us we cannot take pictures. They have an interactive display next to Michael that shows various body parts (head, hand, torso) in 360 degree rotation where you can move the lighting from top to bottom and left to right. Both actions were controlled with a track ball and was a pretty cool feature


• We then sat down behind David for a few minutes and just admired the detail that went into this sculpture.


• Eventually we found a few seats in front and sat for even longer. All told we probably spent 30-45 minutes just looking at this statue. Needless to say we were impressed.


• We concluded the Academy tour by looking at some plaster molds that were used to create some sculptures in the 19^th century. We did not really understand why they were there since they were so much newer than the other sculptures and were just the plaster models. Maybe if we had paid for the audio tour, maybe we could have figured it out. Oh wel


• We then exited the Academy


• We then decided to head to the Florence Synagogue.



• We arrived around 1120 or so, and had to leave our bags and cameras in a locker at the entrance to the synagogue. We had to go through a metal detector to make sure we were not carrying any explosives or other forbidden items in our pockets. (We were pretty sure that there were anywhere from 1-3 armed or plain clothes security people around the temple as well.


• Once inside we found out the Great Synagogue of Florence itself closes at 1130, so they can open up a small museum on their 1^st floor. So needless to say, we headed to the museum.


• Inside the museum they details of Jewish life in Florence since the 1300’s, when the first document Jewish merchants were to be found and recorded in this part of Italy.


• They also said there have been Jews in Italy for 2000 years before Christ, so the Jewish history predates Christians in this country by a long shot.


• Italian Jews are neither Ashkenazi or Sephardic, but are rather direct descents of Jews from Israel with different pronunciations, traditions and the shofar’s (though from the one we saw in the museum they were not that different).


• Starting around 1492, with the inquisition started by Isabel and Ferdinand who drove the Jews out of Spain and Portugal, many Sephardim arrived in Florence and were welcomed into the community, though for centuries they kept two separate synagogues.


• Many Ashkenazi Jews from Easter Europe (Poland primarily) flowed into cities like Venice and Milan in the north east section of Italy and the Sephardim arrived in Western Italy.


• Florence was an usual city for this time since the Jewish ghetto was located in the center of the city, in the current Republic Square, as opposed to the outer parts of the city where most every other Jewish community was located throughout Europe. There is even a column in Republic Square which remembers this original location.


• The Jews in Florence reached equal citizen status in the 1880’s when they started to build the synagogue. They had to find an architect since for centuries Jews in Italy were never allowed to learn this skill, they were prohibited by the pope.


• At this time both Jewish communities decided to come together to build one synagogue to represent the community in Florence.


• After selected an architect, it was built with a classical Italian and byzantine style, with a blue/green basilica, a church organ and a pulpit in the center of the building. From the outside it actually resembles a mosque, more than a temple. The guide said many Muslim travelers have showed up at the building asking if they can worship there.


• During WW2 hundreds of Florentine Jews were deported to Germany and only a few returned home


• The Nazi’s used the synagogue as a warehouse during the occupation


• After the war, the Palestinian Brigade helped reunite those deported with those not departed and re-establish one Jewish community in Florence


• Today there are 1200 Jews living in Florence


• We left the synagogue well past 1230 as we walked around the magnificent building one more time and paused outside the security gates to take a few more pictures


• After being absolutely overwhelmed and educated on the history of the Jewish people of this city, we continued to wander the streets around the synagogue, enjoying our last day in Florence


• So once again it was time to find a place to eat lunch. We stopped at close to 20 restaurants looking at the menus, checking out the prices, the ambiance, and any other attribute to find a place we liked. Unfortunately none of them fit our needs at that moment. It was almost comical watching us go from one place to another looking for one that is just right. It was like Goldilocks, but instead of porridge, we were seeking pasta.


• Finally we crossed the bridge just south of the Ponte Vecchio, and decided to explore that side of town looking for some grub. Much to our chagrin, there is not much on this side of the Ponte Vecchio for tourists to see or eat.


• Around 1400, we found Di Alfano Guiseppe just off the Ponte Vecchio Bridge. It is a very small outdoor café, since we wanted something very simple and quick. Nancy got the Caprese Panini, and I got a pizza with German (Werfel) Sausage.


• It was recommended to us that we visit the Bobboli Gardens behind the Pitti Palace. It is a beautiful location with great views of the city. However, when we got there we found out that we had to buy tickets and neither one of us were in the mood to walk around and climb more hills. After a long discussion and a phone call home (Nancy’s parents had been to Italy and Florence about 6 weeks before us), we decided not to go in but rather to venture back to the Ponte Vecchio, which meant one thing; decision time on the ring.


• As we crossed the bridge, Nancy continued to look into every shop to make sure that she did not find any other jewelry that she liked better. I was feeling quite happy knowing that I was going to get my wife something she really wanted and would truly help us remember our trip every time she looks at this thing of beauty.


• We came to the store, and went inside. She tried it on again and sure enough it looked fabulous on her. I simply could not leave it there. The owner was there this time and helped us work out a very good price, so the ring was hers


• We found place just off the Ponte Vecchio where they had waffles and gelato, so we ate a delicious and messy snack before we headed back to the hotel


• Back we went to the hotel for a well deserved siesta around 1630


• Upon arrival in Florence, we were presented with a free drink (wine or soda) from the hotel bar. We decided to use this tonight, since we would not have another opportunity. So around 1915 we head down to the bar for our beverages.


• We run into two couples who just got to Florence and happen to live in White Plains. We make simple small talk and make a few suggestions on things for them to do and see while in Florence, since after 3 days we are now expertsJ. There is also a very strange Asian (probably Japanese man) sitting in the bar telling who composed every piece of music being played in the bar. He also orders a dish from the hotel bar (not exactly known for its extensive menu) with extra mushrooms, since he loves mushrooms and is willing to pay extra for mushrooms. All things considered it was a very weird experience and made it clear that after we finished our soda and wine that it was time to find a place to eat dinner.


• Around 2000 we were off. It was also recommended we try to eat in a place, off the beaten path, where the locals eat. We found 2 or 3 places like that but were not overly impressed by the menus. Since it is intended for the locals, they are completely in Italian and we are concerned about what we will be actually getting. We then head back to the center of town to find a place that is more to our liking. We look into another 5-7 trattorias and osterias before we finally find one to our liking in Republic Square


• We decide to eat at Ristaurante Giubbe Rosse, because the maître d is the only one that is not so overbearing begging us to eat in their restaurant. When we passed by the first time, he apologized for intruding when we told him we were only looking at not yet ready to decide. The others were like vultures just trying to get us to sit in their establishments. It was truly a case where the nice guy was rewarded.


• We decided to forgo a second course and instead get a few different dishes to share.


• We started off with a Margareta Pizza.


• We followed that up with an order of bruschetta.


• Then we originally ordered the spaghetti with Garlic and Red sauce (for Jeff) and vegetarian lasagna (for Nancy). When the lasagna came it was smothered in a cream sauce, which Nancy absolutely positively does not like.


• We agreed to switch, I would eat the lasagna and she would eat the other dish, which when it came out it was penne, not spaghetti. This is not a huge issue, but we were surprised by the change in noodle regardless. The waiter came over and inquired why we had switched, when we explained that she was not happy with the lasagna in the cream sauce he offered to replace it with another dish, since I had only had a bite or two.


• We decided we would try the pasta Bolognese instead, so he took the lasagna back to the kitchen so we could start from scratch.


• We ate the penne dish together and found that the garlic alone made it quite spicy, but delicious all the same.


• By the time we finished, we were wondering if we had made a mistake even asking for the second dish and thought about cancelling.


• When the Bolognese dish came out, somehow we found room to eat that as well.


• As has been the case, we decided to forgo our dessert and my coffee to


• Now it was time for our after dinner stroll before retiring for the evening


• Around 2230, we wound up back at Hotel De le Ville ready to leave for our driving tour of Tuscany in the morning.