October 26, 2008 – Day 7 – Radda in C...

October 26, 2008 – Day 7 – Radda in Chianti, Siena, Cortona

• European Daylight savings began today at 0200, so we were able to get an extra hour on our trip


• Since it was a Sunday, we wanted to try to sleep a little later


• Jeff woke at 0730, Nancy work up past 0830


• We finally had the opportunity to look out the windows and were absolutely blown away by the views of Cortona above us, and the beautiful valley all around.


• The road leading from the restaurant to the suites is lined by olive trees and the entire estate in line with grape vines. The setting that we were not able to appreciate the night before was stunning.


• We had breakfast, in the summer breakfast room, located near the suites, where we were staying


• We walk in and wouldn’t you know it, the exact same waiter is also serving us breakfast (or at least setting up the buffet and bringing us coffee). Since we left the restaurant the night before past 2200, and there were people still there, we were a bit surprised to see him again. We jokingly asking him if he had spent the night there working. At least he seemed to have a sense of humor in the morning.


• It was the standard Italian breakfast, though il Falconere had a larger selection of breads, and cheeses. I was a bit surprised that they did not have any hot food, though they had the chafing dishes out as if they were to serve eggs and meats. Either way, it was yummy. I could eat a continental breakfast all the time


• We were back in the car by 1030 and off to Siena. We had debated if we were going to take the same highway we took the day before to head back to Siena or take some of the side roads. The concierge said it would take almost 2.5 hours if we took the back roads to get to Siena, we decide to take the highway


• Siena, we were warned, is a very difficult city to find, a very difficult place to find parking and not very well marked. Our experience proved this advice correct. We got off the highway in Siena and started to follow the signs into the city, however we went through 2-3 intersections and all signs indicated which way simply disappeared (now, we figured out later that if no sign exists we should just keep going straight, but with the number of rotary’s there, it was impossible to understand this until you have been driving there for quite some time, not necessarily on your second day in a car).


• As we were driving around figuring which was to go, we saw a sign for Radda and decided we would just go there first.


• Everyone said, we must go to Radda in Chianti. It was beautiful we were told, it is quaint, it would be one of the highlights of our trip, we were told, so off to Radda, in another 35 kilometers figuring to get there around 1200.


• Sure enough we pull into town right on schedule, drive around the town looking for a parking spot. We drive around a bit and are directed to a little parking spot, with a dirt and stone base, that seems to be far off the beaten path, so we decided not to park there. We turn around and head back into town looking a side lot or on street parking. We find a spot on the street and head off to explore the town, but first we decide to visit the local water closet since nature is calling. We follow the signs that lead back to the parking lot we were just in, which is right next to town and has perhaps the cleanest water closet in all of Italy if not all of the European continent. Every freshening up and lightening our load, we decide to go into Radda. On our way into town we pass a young couple and point them towards the WC.


• Now it is around 1230 now on a Sunday afternoon and we go through the wall into town and we find nothing and no one in town. The town is significantly smaller than the other towns we visited previously. I don’t know if everyone just takes it easy on Sunday in Radda, or if quaint also means boring with nothing to do. We look for the tourist office and get a little map of the city and our concerns are confirmed, there ain’t much here. There are a few churces, not many shops or restaurants, but like a good tourist we explore all there is to see here


• Either way the landscapes around the city are beautiful and not to be missed. We pass the couple from the WC about 2-3 more times (just to show how small the town really is). We finally strike up a conversation with them, they are from Israel, and we ask them to take a picture of us and vice versa.


• We exchange the normal pleasantries and information about where each of us have been, they had been in Siena and told us to park near the soccer field, we tell them they should head to San Giagmano and Volterra if they have the time.


• With that we decide to leave Radda, a bit underwhelmed and not sure why everyone raved about this little hill town, we hop in the car about 1315 and head off to the football field in Siena.


• We kept talking about stopping at a winery, to do a little wine tasting, but I found that they were all poorly marked, you never knew ahead of time where one was going to be, and then once you passed a vineyard, it was almost impossible to turn around and go back. Eventually, just outside of Sienna we find a vineyard to stop and do a tasting. It winds up the woman who owns the store speaks no English, does not even understand any of my gestures to sample the wine. SO we leave quite disappointed, hoping that not every vineyard winds up being like this one.


• We decide around 1400 that we will call home to see how things are going back in Stamford. We speak with my parents and the kids and find everything is going well, and everyone is surviving with out us. We have now had our kid fix and are off.


• We now attempt to follow the signs to the center of Siena via the soccer stadium. We follow the big wall around the city and wind up parking right next to the wall. We think we must be in a great spot, since we seem to be right here. What we soon realize is that the fortress, where we are parked, is not really located next to the old city, so we still have a big walk ahead of us to get to where we want to go.


• After a few questions of the local, and a long experience of staring at the soccer stadium, caused by my unwillingness to ask for directions, when I already knew which direction we were supposed to go, we headed off the old city. It was another beautiful city with a lot of shops, restaurants and of course churches.


• We started walking in the direction of the duomo, but the came across il Campo a stunning town square that is anchored by the the Palazzo Pubblico, with its Torre del Mangia and various palazzi signorili. Our hotel manager, recommended a place to eat in Siena, but it seemed to be way more fancy schmancy place than we were looking for, or willing to spend for lunch. Our travel agent recommended we try to find a specific place for lunch, so we wonder in and out of the Piazza looking for this particular place. After a fruitless search, it appears that the recommendation is not open for lunch, only dinner. So as it quickly approaching 1500, when the majority of lunch places close, we decide to eat at one of the multiple places right on the one of the greatest public spaces we have ever seen.


• In all this walking around looking for a restaurant, we did see a sign for the Siena synagogue and decided that might be a good place to hit later in the day


• Nancy gets a very simple caprisi Panini and I got a very boring white pizza, simply crust and mozzarella cheese. I thought it might have some flavor, but I was very wrong it was perhaps the single worst meal I had in Italy, and I had no one to blame but myself. I was going to get a tuna salad instead, but then talked myself into a pizza. The table next to us got that salad and it looked delicious and very filling. Well, cie le vie. Not everything can be perfect 100% of the time over 10 days.


• We were a bit disappointed since it was now well past 1500 and we felt we had not really seen that much today. So we then went off in search of the Duomo, the master piece of architecture in the entire town. We decided not to enter the church, as were both kind of tired, and were happy sitting outside admiring the lines and beauty.


• We sat near a tour group and listened to the guide tell them some facts about this church.


• As we were sitting there admiring the sites and basking in the nice fall weather, a pigeon pooped on Nancy’s shoulder. After the initial shock and disgust, we had to laugh as this was just the icing on the cake of this day.


• After some more discussions, we decided to head over to the synagogue (getting a little Jew on) and then we would head out. It was a decision we would not regret


• We find the synagogue right behind the Piazza del Campo, kind of nestled in a residential neighborhood. We walk in and pay the 10 euros for the two of us to enter. We are given a small tour and some facts about the Siena Jewish community


• The synagogue was built in 1789, with the majority of the chapel still having original furnishings.


• The style is classical Italian Renaissance


• As an orthodox congregation, the woman originally sat in the upper deck, which is no longer open to the public, they now sit on opposite sides of the shul.


• Only 14 Siena Jews were deported and died during WWII. Our guide attributed this to the excellent relationship between the Siena Jews and the non-Jews of Siena. No one was willing to turn the Jews in here. If this has not been studied further, it would be a very interesting study to understand the dynamics that went on here, and helped spare a community being wrecked by genocide.


• Upon exiting the synagogue we felt significantly refreshed.


• And now before our long drive back to Cortona, we decided we must have gelato and sit in the Palazzo de Campo one more time. We enjoyed our treat as we sat down and watched the people go by. We decided to take a few more pictures and hit the road.


• It was about almost 1700 when we hit the road knowing we had 45-60 minutes of driving ahead of us. At least we had driven into and out of this city multiple times the night before and knew where we heading.


• By the time we parked and got out of the car, it was 1800 and dark out (as daylight savings had ended that morning), so we finally began to explore the city.


• Upon arrival there was an old fashioned flea market that was just ending right at the base of the Duomo. Although it was closing, Nancy and I enjoyed wondering through and looking at some of the items, junk and trinkets that were on sale here. This reminded us of the flea market my parents took us to in Conklin.


• As we began to explore the city, we were amazed at the number of people on the streets at this hour. It would seem (we don’t know for sure that this does not happen every night in every other city, but this is the first night we were out on the street at this time) that everyone who lives on Cortona comes out on Sunday nights and meets, talks and walks with their neighbors. It was an absolutely amazing, friendly atmosphere. It a refreshing difference from how the American culture is, where we would rarely all decide to go outside, walk around and simply stroll to meet and greet our old neighbors, friends and catch up. We are always in a hurry and never take the time to stop and smell the roses, and this is exactly what the citizens of this midevil town were doing and apparently do every Sunday.


• We found Cortona to not be that large. We did not make it to the very top of the city as we got diverted down a side street and found ourselves with a seat overlooking the valley below us. It was a crystal clear night, and we could see for miles. We sat there for a few minutes as we contemplated our next move.


• The hotel had recommended two restaurants in Cortona and as expected both of them were a bit more upscale than we had wanted.


• It was still just past 1900, and most restaurants really don’t get busy until well past 2000. We had decided that we were going to break with Italian tradition and just eat early, since we were hungry and tired.


• We found a little bistro café right off the piazza where the flea market was held. We split a green salad, then both had a very simple pasta dishes and passed on the main course. After stuffing ourselves for almost a week, we decided simpler was better tonight. This wound up being the most inexpensive dinner of the trip, and obviously the least memorable.


• We would our way back down the road from Cortona to our hotel without encountering any cars coming barreling around corners in the other direction.


• Back at the hotel Nancy took a bath to relax and unwind, while I drank the champagne from the night before. A relaxing end to a strange day to say the least.


• We felt that although our day in Radda and Siena was not one of our best, this was actually probably the worst one of the trip, not because we had a bad time, but rather we were just out of sync, which is completely understandable over the course of a 10 day vacation. We felt that we had spent a lot of time in the car, and not had seen as much as we had anticipated. Either way in the greater scheme of things the day was well, but not compared to the rest of the vacation. We were glad to have this one behind us and looking forward to less driving tomorrow
  

October 25, 2008 – Day 6 – Volterra, ...

October 25, 2008 – Day 6 – Volterra, San Gimignano, Cortona

• Awoke at 0800


• Leave Hotel De le Ville around 1000


• Walk to Auto Europa Car Rental and arrive approximately at 1015, fill out necessary paper work and forms, in the car (Alfa Romeo) by 1030 and on our way out of Florence


• Start driving down the Firenze Sierra Freeway, follow signs to Siena and then to San Gimignano. On the way we decide to go a little further to Volterra first since this is about 30 km west of San Gimignano and we figure it is best to start at the furthest point away then work our way back to our next hotel


• Arrive at Volterra around 1200.


• Walk around the perimeter of the town, looking for the primary bell tower to climb. We are simply amazed at the beautiful arches, the terraced building and the breathtaking views.


• Also Volterra has many very small churches located throughout the walled city. Very small, no more than 20x20, but will beautiful and ornate art work adorning the walls and alter.


• We walk up one street and find a pastry shop, where we buy a cream puff and four small bow ties (like donuts). We also get a cappuccino and hot chocolate to go. The hot chocolate is like pudding, very thick; half of it winds up in my beverage giving it an instant moccachino flavor.


• There is an opening at the top of the hill with a panoramic view where we sit down to enjoy our little snack. Nancy spies a fruit stand and buys a pear, an orange and a banana. We share the pear, which is as juicy and sweet as I have ever tasted.


• Right next to us was a very large covered tent, where there was some kind of food, cheese and wine special going on. We venture inside and sample all kinds of cheese, pork products, wine and grappa. We did not want to seem greedy with our sampling, since we did not have any intention of making any purchases here.


• After a few more corners, we decided it was time to move on


• It is the penultimate Italian experience.


• Overall, we were very impressed this town and enjoyed our time here


• We leave Volterra around 1400 and arrive at San Gimignano at 1430.


• Very similar to Volterra, fortress city built on a hill, where you can see for miles around in 360 degrees.


• It makes sense that back in the day that they would have built their towns here on the top of this hill so they can see any marauding armies for miles. Also, by holding the high ground it makes it very difficult for the aforementioned marauding army to actually attack and conquer the cities. It is pure strategic genius to put these cities where they are.


• Upon entering San Gimignano, we find the cathedral of St. Jacobo and we know that we are going to like this town


• Next stop is the museum, where we pay to see some of the pottery recently unearthed in various archeological digs of the recent past. Most important we pay to get in a) to use the toilets and b) gain entry to the Grasso Tower, the main tower in the center of town.


• As we continue to wander around, we find a wine tasting at the base of the bell tower and decide it would just not be right if we did not sample some of the wines they were offering on this fine day. After sampling a few of the locals vino, we decide to climb the tower


• At the top of the tower we are able to look down on the entire city as well as the valley below. Again, simply beautiful, breath taking and awe inspiring. If I could I would have stayed there forever and just basked in the beauty, but alas, time called and we had to move on again, so down the stairs we went.


• We exited the city via a different street, to make sure we saw as much as we could with the time we had, when we eventually found ourselves back at St. Jacobo and knew the time to leave was now, but that we would not soon forget the majestic beauty of these two stunning mountain towns.


• We were back in the car on the way to Cortona by about 1630. We figured it was about an hour and half to the hotel, which would get in before the sun went down. Since we never really ate lunch, we shared the orange and banana we had purchased in Volterra on the drive.


• As 1800 approached we could see Cortona in the distance. We had directions to the hotel from Florence and were not sure they would apply the same as we were coming from Sienna. (Note if I had just listened to Nancy when we first approached Cortona, and turned left instead of right, we would have saved ourselves 90 minutes of frustration), with that in mind here goes the story:


• Turn right at the intersection following the signs to Cortona. We go up an incredibly large, narrow and winding road to come into another mountain town.


• At the first intersection, we see lots of signs for hotels and restaurants but none for the one we are staying.


• We drive around the lower ridge of the city and come to another intersection, where the sign says our hotel is down the hill (arrow pointing straight down), so we begin to descend again down a different long, narrow, and winding road.


• We get to the bottom and incredulously cannot believe we missed the hotel, so we turn around and try again (Note: If we had continued on about another 50 meters, we would have found the hotel and saved ourselves at least another 60 minutes).


• Darkness is now descending upon Cortona


• We wind up going back all the way around to the original starting location, where we go up the same large, narrow and winding row we went up before


• When we come to the 2^nd major intersection, I decide to head up the hill, though the signs clearly indicate that the hotel is down. We get to the top of the hill and decide to pull over, look at the map and try to use my mobile phone to call the hotel and figure out where we are, and more importantly where they are, but I am unable to make an outgoing call at this point in time.


• Eventually, I find a place to turn around and begin to go back down the hill again. We see another break in the city wall, with a huge list of restaurants and hotels, so we pull into a parking lot to see if we can see a sign for our hotel. No Dice


• We continue down to the intersection where there is a sign for our hotel and I pull into an EMS (Ambulance) station and park the car. I get out and walk over to stare at the sign for 5 minutes to try to gain a better understanding of the arrow pointing down to see if there is some deeper hidden meaning, since I have already been down and would swear the hotel simply does not exist down there. I stand there looking around to see if anyone can assist me on what has now become a fools errand and quite the folly.


• Eventually, I wander back to the EMS station and speak to the gentleman stationed there and ask them if they can tell me how to get to the hotel, and sure enough I need to go down and 50 meters past where I was to get there. Damn, I should have just listened to Nancy and made that left 90 minutes ago.


• Sure enough we follow the directions and find the next sign and proceed towards our hotel, Il Falconairre, which is up an incredibly narrow, winding road into the middle of nowhere.


• As we pull into the parking lot, we are now both frustrated, exhausted and extremely hungry.


• We check into the il Falconnire around 1915 and make a 2015 dinner reservation at the hotel. It was suggested by our travel agent that we eat dinner at the hotel, and it was good thing, since there was no way in hell I was going to go out and try to find my way around Cortona again in hopes of finding grub.


• By 1930 we are in our room. It is a large room with a big poster bed, a couch and entire sitting room and large bathroom.


• The concierge was very adamant that we be back at the restaurant in time for our reservation. So that did not allow much time for relaxation.


• We walk back to the dining room (Note: I did not bring any pants besides jeans, nor do I own a sport jacket) and discuss the fact that we are probably going to be way underdressed for this place, and just hoping they will still serve us, since we are bordering on starvation now.


• The maitre’d sits us down and presents us with the menu (so we have passed the first test, they have let us in the door and sat us down. I guess they figure as long as our checks don’t pass our money is just as green as everyone elses. Though my suspicions are confirmed when every man there has a suit and tie, or at least a nice collared shirt with a sport jacket. Nancy had a nice sweater with jeans, so from the top up, you could not tell she was a tad underdressed.


• We were offered a complimentary glass of champagne as we sat down


• Upon examination of the menu, Nancy becomes quite concerned that there is nothing for her to eat. Everything is served with thick creams or heavy sauces, neither of which she will eat. We scour up and down until we find two items that she will eat; Onion Soup and Pan Seared Tuna. (Next crisis averted). I order ravioli with a red sauce and a pecorino fondue over the top for an appetizer and Venison Tenderloin with a bittersweet chocolate sauce for my main dish.


• The Onion Soup was very good, but not very soupy; it was primarily onions and bread in a bowl.


• The ravioli was good, but nothing to write home about.


• The tuna was served medium rare on a bed of spinach. The spinach was good but not as good as the dish we got in Florence at Buca Lapi. The tuna itself was outstanding; white on the outside and a touch of red/pink on the inside, just the right amount of flaky, a perfect piece of fish


• The venison was two small tenderloins, with a brush of chocolate sauce underneath it. I personally would have never thought to pair these together (that is probably why I am not a chef), but they were a perfect compliment in tastes. Needless to say, I was quite happy with my choice.


• Finally, we were unsure if we were going to have dessert, but decided since we had nowhere else to go that night and were in no hurry, we might just as well dive in and go for broke.


• We each had a dessert, a triple chocolate truffle (milk chocolate, dark chocolate and some kind of nutty chocolate) and Banana fritters


• Then the waiter brought out a sample of about 10 other deserts for us to try. He described what each one was then walked away.


• I don’t know if we were tired or focused on our own dish, but we did not really comprehend whether a) these were complimentary or b) what each one of the desserts actually were


• We asked the waiter over to tell us again, and he said something that I never in a million years would have expected him to say, especially at a fine establishment like this one:

“I already told you what this was, did you forget?”

• We were rolling on the floor laughing and this just capped off the night


• We went back to the room, and fell into bed.

October 24 – Day 5 – Florence

October 24, 2008 – Day 5 – Florence - Picutures

• Awoke at 0800


• Ate what has become a standard Italian breakfast of assorted fruits, cheeses, breads and croissants served with juice and coffee


• Had 1000 tickets to see David at the Academy.


• Today there were no lines, so even though we had reserved tickets we did not need them. It would seem we might have wasted the money that we paid the hotel to get the reserved tickets.


• Either way, once we enter we see more paintings, which look a lot like what we saw in the Ufizzi yesterday.


• We then find our room into the back, where they have displayed musical instruments from the past. There are cellos from the 17^th century, clarinets, piccolo’s, French horns and even a few hurdy gurdy’s. We also a demonstration of different ways piano’s could be played; strummed like a guitar string or hit with a hammer. All things considered it was very interesting display.




• Finally we moved into the center of the gallery and there he stood in all his naked glory: DAVID. One of Michelangelo’s most well known and finest pieces in the entire world. It was simply a marvel to look at and gaze upon. Nancy and I stood there for at 5-10 minutes, even attempted to take a picture, before we (and a group of other people) were yelled at by the museum attendants telling us we cannot take pictures. They have an interactive display next to Michael that shows various body parts (head, hand, torso) in 360 degree rotation where you can move the lighting from top to bottom and left to right. Both actions were controlled with a track ball and was a pretty cool feature


• We then sat down behind David for a few minutes and just admired the detail that went into this sculpture.


• Eventually we found a few seats in front and sat for even longer. All told we probably spent 30-45 minutes just looking at this statue. Needless to say we were impressed.


• We concluded the Academy tour by looking at some plaster molds that were used to create some sculptures in the 19^th century. We did not really understand why they were there since they were so much newer than the other sculptures and were just the plaster models. Maybe if we had paid for the audio tour, maybe we could have figured it out. Oh wel


• We then exited the Academy


• We then decided to head to the Florence Synagogue.



• We arrived around 1120 or so, and had to leave our bags and cameras in a locker at the entrance to the synagogue. We had to go through a metal detector to make sure we were not carrying any explosives or other forbidden items in our pockets. (We were pretty sure that there were anywhere from 1-3 armed or plain clothes security people around the temple as well.


• Once inside we found out the Great Synagogue of Florence itself closes at 1130, so they can open up a small museum on their 1^st floor. So needless to say, we headed to the museum.


• Inside the museum they details of Jewish life in Florence since the 1300’s, when the first document Jewish merchants were to be found and recorded in this part of Italy.


• They also said there have been Jews in Italy for 2000 years before Christ, so the Jewish history predates Christians in this country by a long shot.


• Italian Jews are neither Ashkenazi or Sephardic, but are rather direct descents of Jews from Israel with different pronunciations, traditions and the shofar’s (though from the one we saw in the museum they were not that different).


• Starting around 1492, with the inquisition started by Isabel and Ferdinand who drove the Jews out of Spain and Portugal, many Sephardim arrived in Florence and were welcomed into the community, though for centuries they kept two separate synagogues.


• Many Ashkenazi Jews from Easter Europe (Poland primarily) flowed into cities like Venice and Milan in the north east section of Italy and the Sephardim arrived in Western Italy.


• Florence was an usual city for this time since the Jewish ghetto was located in the center of the city, in the current Republic Square, as opposed to the outer parts of the city where most every other Jewish community was located throughout Europe. There is even a column in Republic Square which remembers this original location.


• The Jews in Florence reached equal citizen status in the 1880’s when they started to build the synagogue. They had to find an architect since for centuries Jews in Italy were never allowed to learn this skill, they were prohibited by the pope.


• At this time both Jewish communities decided to come together to build one synagogue to represent the community in Florence.


• After selected an architect, it was built with a classical Italian and byzantine style, with a blue/green basilica, a church organ and a pulpit in the center of the building. From the outside it actually resembles a mosque, more than a temple. The guide said many Muslim travelers have showed up at the building asking if they can worship there.


• During WW2 hundreds of Florentine Jews were deported to Germany and only a few returned home


• The Nazi’s used the synagogue as a warehouse during the occupation


• After the war, the Palestinian Brigade helped reunite those deported with those not departed and re-establish one Jewish community in Florence


• Today there are 1200 Jews living in Florence


• We left the synagogue well past 1230 as we walked around the magnificent building one more time and paused outside the security gates to take a few more pictures


• After being absolutely overwhelmed and educated on the history of the Jewish people of this city, we continued to wander the streets around the synagogue, enjoying our last day in Florence


• So once again it was time to find a place to eat lunch. We stopped at close to 20 restaurants looking at the menus, checking out the prices, the ambiance, and any other attribute to find a place we liked. Unfortunately none of them fit our needs at that moment. It was almost comical watching us go from one place to another looking for one that is just right. It was like Goldilocks, but instead of porridge, we were seeking pasta.


• Finally we crossed the bridge just south of the Ponte Vecchio, and decided to explore that side of town looking for some grub. Much to our chagrin, there is not much on this side of the Ponte Vecchio for tourists to see or eat.


• Around 1400, we found Di Alfano Guiseppe just off the Ponte Vecchio Bridge. It is a very small outdoor café, since we wanted something very simple and quick. Nancy got the Caprese Panini, and I got a pizza with German (Werfel) Sausage.


• It was recommended to us that we visit the Bobboli Gardens behind the Pitti Palace. It is a beautiful location with great views of the city. However, when we got there we found out that we had to buy tickets and neither one of us were in the mood to walk around and climb more hills. After a long discussion and a phone call home (Nancy’s parents had been to Italy and Florence about 6 weeks before us), we decided not to go in but rather to venture back to the Ponte Vecchio, which meant one thing; decision time on the ring.


• As we crossed the bridge, Nancy continued to look into every shop to make sure that she did not find any other jewelry that she liked better. I was feeling quite happy knowing that I was going to get my wife something she really wanted and would truly help us remember our trip every time she looks at this thing of beauty.


• We came to the store, and went inside. She tried it on again and sure enough it looked fabulous on her. I simply could not leave it there. The owner was there this time and helped us work out a very good price, so the ring was hers


• We found place just off the Ponte Vecchio where they had waffles and gelato, so we ate a delicious and messy snack before we headed back to the hotel


• Back we went to the hotel for a well deserved siesta around 1630


• Upon arrival in Florence, we were presented with a free drink (wine or soda) from the hotel bar. We decided to use this tonight, since we would not have another opportunity. So around 1915 we head down to the bar for our beverages.


• We run into two couples who just got to Florence and happen to live in White Plains. We make simple small talk and make a few suggestions on things for them to do and see while in Florence, since after 3 days we are now expertsJ. There is also a very strange Asian (probably Japanese man) sitting in the bar telling who composed every piece of music being played in the bar. He also orders a dish from the hotel bar (not exactly known for its extensive menu) with extra mushrooms, since he loves mushrooms and is willing to pay extra for mushrooms. All things considered it was a very weird experience and made it clear that after we finished our soda and wine that it was time to find a place to eat dinner.


• Around 2000 we were off. It was also recommended we try to eat in a place, off the beaten path, where the locals eat. We found 2 or 3 places like that but were not overly impressed by the menus. Since it is intended for the locals, they are completely in Italian and we are concerned about what we will be actually getting. We then head back to the center of town to find a place that is more to our liking. We look into another 5-7 trattorias and osterias before we finally find one to our liking in Republic Square


• We decide to eat at Ristaurante Giubbe Rosse, because the maître d is the only one that is not so overbearing begging us to eat in their restaurant. When we passed by the first time, he apologized for intruding when we told him we were only looking at not yet ready to decide. The others were like vultures just trying to get us to sit in their establishments. It was truly a case where the nice guy was rewarded.


• We decided to forgo a second course and instead get a few different dishes to share.


• We started off with a Margareta Pizza.


• We followed that up with an order of bruschetta.


• Then we originally ordered the spaghetti with Garlic and Red sauce (for Jeff) and vegetarian lasagna (for Nancy). When the lasagna came it was smothered in a cream sauce, which Nancy absolutely positively does not like.


• We agreed to switch, I would eat the lasagna and she would eat the other dish, which when it came out it was penne, not spaghetti. This is not a huge issue, but we were surprised by the change in noodle regardless. The waiter came over and inquired why we had switched, when we explained that she was not happy with the lasagna in the cream sauce he offered to replace it with another dish, since I had only had a bite or two.


• We decided we would try the pasta Bolognese instead, so he took the lasagna back to the kitchen so we could start from scratch.


• We ate the penne dish together and found that the garlic alone made it quite spicy, but delicious all the same.


• By the time we finished, we were wondering if we had made a mistake even asking for the second dish and thought about cancelling.


• When the Bolognese dish came out, somehow we found room to eat that as well.


• As has been the case, we decided to forgo our dessert and my coffee to


• Now it was time for our after dinner stroll before retiring for the evening


• Around 2230, we wound up back at Hotel De le Ville ready to leave for our driving tour of Tuscany in the morning.

October 23 - Day 4 – Florence

October 23, 2008 - Day 4 – Florence - Pictures

• Awoke at 0800


• Arrived at the Uffizi at about 0950.


• Wandered around for 10 minutes to find the correct gate, since we had purchased our tickets ahead of time at the hotel. Had to go from Gate 1, to Gate 3, which was across the street to get our tickets back to Gate 1. A bit of a hassle, but at least we got to jump the queue (at Gate 2) and not stand in line waiting to get into this museum.


• Rented the audio player with two speakers, so we had some idea of what we were looking at and attempt to understand something. Often times Nancy would walk ahead with the player forcing me to follow like a dog on a leash


• Spent 2.5 hours roaming 43 rooms with works of art and sculptures laid out essentially in chronological order, running from the 14^th century through the 19^th century. Although it was primarily Italian artist, there were also representation from the Flemish, Dutch, Belgium and other northern European countries. Although the overwhelming majority of the pieces are related to the birth of Jesus and the virgin mother, the annunciation of Jesus, the resurrection of Jesus, etc.


• The style of the renaissance is simply outstanding in my opinion. I know Nancy felt after a bit that they all began to the look the same, but to watch how the same stories being depicted over the course of time and the methods they used, whether the golden background on wood of the 14^th century or the amazing use of colors in the 16^th century or the detail of all the objects portrayed in the 17^th century are pretty amazing.


• The fact that someone would take years to paint a single 10’x15’ painting truly shows their artistic ability. I understand the times are different and we don’t have popes and dukes and other aristocrats paying to have these types of works commissioned these days, but is modern art really comparable to what these masters produced? I don’t think so, but as you know I am not an art expert by any stretch of the imagination.


• After the Uffizi we walked to Ponte Vecchio, a bridge over the Arno River that has retail shops lining both sides that hang out off the bridge over the water. It is quite a spectacular sight. I read that during WWII, the Allies were extremely careful not to hit this bridge with their bombers, because of the historical value. Even as the Germans were retreated, they blew up all other bridges crossing the river, but only mined this one, and never actually detonated it. It is one of the most unique structures we have ever seen.




• At what may you ask are the shops like on the Ponte Vecchio? Almost nothing but jewelry stores lining both sides of the bridge with a break in the middle for tourist to see that this is actually a bridge. So our plan of action was to window shop up on side, then have lunch and wander around the other side of the Arno for a bit, then we could window shop down the other side.


• Nancy said she wanted to find a little something that we could take home that will always remind us of this trip, and since I have purchased no jewelry since our wedding rings and her engagement ring (10 years ago), then she could look at the jewelry and see if she found something she liked.


• Nancy (luckily for me) has never been a big jewelry person. Her ears are pierced (and her maiden name is Pearce), but she almost never wears earrings. The only necklaces she wears are those she makes at her store Art and Soul in New Canaan (shameless plug, if you are reading this, go paint or bead, it makes a nice holiday gift). So to get her a little piece of bling seemed like a reasonable price to pay for the woman who asks for almost nothing in this department.




• Nothing caught her eye on the left side of the bridge


• We then walked up the street directly straight off the bridge (there are at least 4-5 roads that connect at the bridge), we starting looking at the leather goods and other shops that line the streets there.


• After not being impressed by any of the shops, we realized that it was now pushing 1400; we were getting a bit hungry and should look for a place to eat.


• We found a little covered restaurant (it looked like it might rain) that was in an alley between two streets. I got a pepperoni pizza with a beer and Nancy got pasta Bolognese with a coca-cola Light. The pizza was much different than the one from the day before, made on a thicker crust and with fresher mozzarella cheese. Nancy asked which I like better and I said they were both different and could not decide. Needless to say her pasta was also very good.


• After lunch we continued to explore the south side of the Arno.


• We walked up to the Palace Pitti,


• Then we walked down to the Piazza San Spirito.


• We walked up street parallel to the river, enjoying the afternoon and getting a little more exercise after our lunch.




• We finally made it back to the Ponte Vecchio and walked down the other side of the bridge. Nothing caught Nancy’s eye until the very last shop (here I thought we were going to make it out scot-free). It was a beautiful ring with diamonds and it shined like a star in the sky. It also made Nancy light up like a Christmas tree. We went in to have a look. The Irish saleswoman told us it was a classical Italian design and it would be difficult to find a similar ring style in the US. Nancy tried it on and it was a bit big. Because it was big decision, we decided to think about it before we committed.


• We left Ponte Vecchio for the day and headed back to our hotel for a little rest. It was now almost 1600 and we both needed a little rest and relaxation before we would go out again


• Around 1800 we left the hotel with the idea to stroll through the San Lorenz Leather market to see the shops before they closed. I had purchased a leather jacket here when I came as a student studying abroad (not a broad, though I took every chance to study those too at the time) in 1990. It was stolen in a bar in NYC around 1996, so I was looking for the opportunity to finally replace it. Nancy kept asking me what kind of jacket I wanted, brown or black, elastic at the bottom, zipper or button, and I honestly had no idea. I had not given this purchase any thought; I just figured I would know what I wanted when I saw it. We stopped at the first booth and tried on a few jackets, none of which impressed Nancy or me. We continued on a bit, passing a few other shops with jackets, when another jacket caught my eye, and I was caught by the vendor. I tried on about 6 coats in various sizes, colors and styles until Nancy (really her primarily) and I settled on one final jacket. We then did the negotiation dance, even got up to leave once, but finally agreed upon, what seems like a reasonable price, which we both agreed. I was now the proud new owner of an Italian leather coat again. I hoping, since I don’t hang out in grungy bars anymore that this one will not be stolen.


• We then walked through the rest of the market, to see if there was anything else we could not live without. We looked at almost everything they had to offer there, and were not blown away enough to make any other purchases. It was now approaching 1930 or so and all the shops were again closing for the night and that meant supper time for us.


• On our walk to the Uffizi that morning, Nancy had spotted a few restaurants off the beaten path, down a few side streets, that she wanted to try, so we decided what better time than the present to give this a whirl.


• We found one called Le Antiche Carrozze on Borgo Apostoli, 66. We had Buffalo 250, which was essentially a caprese salad with a huge piece of fine fresh whole mozzarella with a large tomato, Ravioli with Spinach with a bolognaise sauce. Nancy had swordfish and I had the whole sea bass with olives and capers. I had wanted a bowl of mussels, but they had run out of the dish earlier.


• The night concluded with another small walk around town before heading back to the hotel, tired but still ready for another days adventure tomorrow.

October 22, – Day 3 – Florence

October 22, - Day 3 – Florence - Pictures

• 0800 wake up, eat breakfast and out of the hotel by 0930


• Walk the 10 minutes to the Rome Train Station where we wait to board our 1030 –Train # 9434 to Milan. We sit in Car 1, Seats 41 and 42. Across from us is a nice older American couple. The train makes stops in Florence and Bologna


• We detrain at 1206 at Santa Maria Novella Station in Florence


• After spending a good 5 minutes looking for the taxi stand (we were about 500 yards away), we catch a cab and go to our hotel


• We are staying at Hotel De La Villa on Piazza Antinori on Via Tornabouni. We have been upgraded to a small corner suite #415 for no additional charge. The room is more spacious than our room in Rome with an entrance, a small sitting area, a double closet, a large desk, a larger bathroom with 2 sinks, and a bigger bed.


• We are off to explore the city of Firenze around 1245.


• First stop the Piazza Del Duomo, which is a large piazza with three large buildings, the Duomo (cathedral) itself, the baptistery and the bell tower.





• We decided to climb the bell tower and all of its 414 steps. We start the first steps right at 1300. Getting to the first level (there are three), seems the hardest. Once we begin to see the tops of the building we decide there is no stopping us now and continue on to the next level. The second level probably 2/3 of the way to the top and has a great cool October breeze blowing through. It is the perfect place to stop, take pictures, enjoy the views and catch your breath (and give the calf’s a rest). Finally it off to the top of tower which provides beautiful panoramic views of Florence and the accompanying countryside. We finish our climb at 1322. You can walk completely around the tower and see for miles on a clear day (which luckily enough it is today). After we take it all in and begin to understand the infinite beauty that is Florence, we begin our descent. (I forgot to look at my watch when we got to the bottom)




• Next stop the Duomo, the largest basilica in all of Florence. We enter in and are in awe of the pageantry and majesty of the architecture. Although the majority of Italian art is primarily Christian in nature, it is still stunning and breath-taking to say the least. To contemplate the human feat of ingenuity, engineering and architecture that went into building these magnificent building is mind-boggling. The stain-glass windows, the massive clock, the art, every detail of the chapel are simply stunning. Without a tour guide or a book, it is impossible to know exactly what we are looking at, but it is still a sight we won’t ever forget.


• Upon exiting the Duomo chapel, we inquire how to climb to the top of the basilica. We are told that we must walk around to the other side of the building enter near the rear of the building. We see that this has 436 steps and no lift, so we decide that we can do this on another day.


• We then sit in the piazza for almost 30 minutes, just enjoying watching the people go by, listening to all the languages being spoken and taking it all in. A perfect way to spend our first afternoon in this beautiful city.


• Soon, our stomachs begin to question why they have not been fed and we head off to find sustenance. We come across a nice little restaurant in the north east corner of republic square where I get a Pizza with mushrooms and yellow peppers; Nancy gets spaghetti with red sauce. Once again the tomatoes in the sauce are so fresh and tasty; I can only attribute it to the soil in Italy being different than the soil in the US. Otherwise, I don’t have an explanation why the taste is so much more alive here.


• After lunch we go in search of Gelato. We eventually find a place that has over 60 flavors. I take a taste of amaretto and Nancy takes more coconut gelato.


• We then decide to stroll around central Florence, walking in and out of the little streets, looking at the various restaurants and shops, never getting very far away but finding lots of little streets to walk down.


• Eventually we find ourselves back in Republic Square (which is actually a square as opposed to the one in Rome which is really a circle) around 1630, and sit down by the carousel and watch children ride the merry-go-round. There are a bunch of elderly woman sitting on the bench adjacent to us, with two groups of elderly men, on another bench, and the other on a bench near the street. This looks like any classical Italian scene you may have pictured from the movies or images you might think of when you think of this country. It was a perfect way to end the day.




• We head back to our hotel around 1715 for a short siesta before our 2000 dinner reservation.


• We leave the hotel around 1900 and decide we want to see more of Florence and walk off some of that gelato we had earlier.


• We head towards the San Lorenz Leather market, and find it closing down, with the all the stalls being put away for the night. We both comment that this must be hard to operate a store on wheels and have to pack it and unpack it every day. But hey, you gotta do what you gotta do to earn a living right?


• Wondered around until we found ourselves back at the train station.


• Nancy forced me to ask two doorman at the closest hotel for directions back to the Duomo, which was literally straight ahead of us (but the road curved, so we could not see it), so we headed back toward the Duomo and our hotel for dinner.


• Finally we sit down for dinner around 2000 at Buca Lapi. We start off with an excellent bruschetta. We then decide to share our main courses, so we order a Steak Florentine and a Grilled Veal Chop, with a side of Spinach with Garlic and Oil. The Florentine Steak is rumored to be one of the best in the city. Nancy had one of the best seats in the house as she was facing the open kitchen and could see one of the chefs butchering sides of beef and cutting them into this local favorite. He just kept bringing out more meat, taking the meat cleaver and then throwing the steaks on a charcoal grill. I have always said meat cooked on wood or charcoal tastes significantly better than when cooked on gas or in an oven. This restaurant proved this theory all over again. For those of you who don’t know what Florentine Steak is (and I did not before today) it is essentially a very large piece of filet mignon served on the bone, very similar to a New York Style Steak. Needless to say, this piece of meat was out of this world. The Veal was a t-bone, and was also excellent.


• Luckily the hotel was just around the corner so we were able to waddle back and crash having thoroughly enjoyed our first day and night in Florence.

October 21 – Day 2 – Rome

October 21 – Day 2 – Rome

• Slept late, did not respond to the 0700 wake up call
  
• 0845 woke up, cleaned up and went downstairs to have breakfast in the hotel
  
• Nice continental breakfast with eggs, rolls, meat, cheese, fruit and of course coffee, thought we would be the only one’s eating breakfast around 1000, but the dining room was packed, so clearly others had the same idea to not start their day at the crack of stupid
  
• Left the hotel around 1030 and headed south towards the Coliseum, past the Republic Square. 
  
• Passed the train station and decided we could walk tomorrow with our luggage as it was no more than 10 minutes total.
  
• Headed down via Cavour, passing the Santa Maria Magglore
  
• Wound up heading west towards the Forum of Nerva and walked by those ruins towards the Colonna Traiana. 
  
• Decided we were so close to the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II, perhaps the most impressive monument in all of Rome that we decided to see it in person.  It is a massive structure with chariots being pulled by winged horses and an 19 story brass king sitting atop an anatomically correct horse.  This is also where the Italian tomb of the Unknown Soldier is located, so there are active military with automatic weapons, which made Nancy a little nervous, so she did not climb to the top of the monument. The view from the top is spectacular with incredible panoramic views of all of Rome. 
  
• From here, we went back to the Forum, we wondered around the grounds and admired the ancient relics for 30-45 minutes. 
  
• Next it was finally onto the Coliseum around 1300.  We toured the entire structure, from one end to the other and then up to the second deck (perhaps a modern day loge section for you stadium aficionado’s out there).  When they put this together, they really knew what they were doing.  Everything about it was just fantastic. 
  
• By the time we finished it was about 1345.  We decided that lunch was going to be needed soon, but we also wanted to head to the Jewish Quarter and see the old synagogue. We walked down via de Circi past the long Roman green, parallel to the Tiber River.  We took a few stops, since we were both getting a bit tired.
  
• Around 1354, I post on Facebook that we are heading towards the Jewish Quarter, and a friend from College, Jonathan Adelson, posts back that we should “Go to the place right behind the synagoge. I can't remember the name, but the best fried zucchini flower ever. And excellent porchetta.”
  
• We get to the Synagogue around 1415 and find that it is closed for Sh’mini Atzeret.  All that way for nothing, at least we have a good recommendation in real time for a place to sit down and have some lunch.  Jonathan’s recommendation is well received
  
• We find de Giggetto exactly where Jonathan said it would be.  We sit down and order the Jewish style fried artichoke and the fried zucchini flower (with anchovy) for appetizers.  Both dishes were really delicious.  The anchovy simply complimented the flower and brought two excellent flavors together, then again I have always says you could fry almost anything and it will taste good. I had the Fettuccini with Porcini Mushrooms and Nancy had a great eggplant parmesan.  The cheese in the eggplant dish was out of this world.  The fettuccini was so fresh and full of flavor it is indescribable.
  
• After lunch, we decided to wonder through the old Jewish Ghetto and take a little tour ourselves.  We walked into a few shops, but were not compelled to purchase anything Judaic at that time.  It is a shame we did not do this on Monday, since we would have been able to tour the building and be given a walking tour of the ghetto, but unfortunately we did not think that far in advance. 
  
• We took a taxi back to the hotel around 1600 for a much deserved siesta.
  
• Around 1900 we headed back out to find a place to eat.  We decided to walk down Via Vittoria and Via Veneto, where there are a lot of outdoor restaurants and cafes to see what exactly would suit our fancy, our wallets and our palates.
  
• We eventually settled on Ciao Bella, when the Maitrie’d started speaking to us in English and he was very welcoming.   Not sure it was the best place in Rome, but the food was certainly well above adequate.  We had Fried Calamari as a starter. It was not as well battered or fried and it had a softer texture we are used to in the US. It winds up that Nancy was not a big fan and I ate the majority of this dish.   For the pasta dish, we got the gnocchi Bolognese, which was very good.  It was literally ground beef, fresh tomatoes and some oil.  Very good.  For our main course I got lamb tenderloin and Nancy got veal marsala.  Both perfectly acceptable dishes, but nothing to rave about.
  
• After dinner we wondered around until we found a dessert/gelato place.  Nancy ordered a crepe with nutella and a side order of coconut gelato.  I asked for a truffle, was told they did not have any, so I settled for two scoops of gelato, café and vanilla.  A few minutes later I saw a truffle being served to another patron. I would normally say it was a conspiracy theory against me getting truffles but the main server we had was a bit wacko and probably did not understand our English.  The dude that was making the crepes kept winking at me and he reminded Nancy of Robin Hood.  All things considered it was a very strange way to end our last evening in Rome.  Tomorrow morning we are off to Florence by train.

October 20 - Rome - Day 1

This is the continuation of my trip diary. I will post photos when we return, so please check back often for updates.

• Arrive in Rome around 630.
• Take a cab to the hotel, leaving airport around 745
• Arrive at hotel Mascagni (Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando, 90, just North West of the Republica) around 830.
• We checked the luggage at the hotel, knowing a room would not be available until 2 pm after those days guests had checked out.
• We went into the hotel bar so Nancy could change her clothes and Jeff had a cappuccino, to get some caffeine into the blood stream
• Giuseppe, the concierge, provides up with a map of Rome and away we go.
• Walk down Via Barberini (which reminds me of Vinny Barberino from Welcome Back Kotter) and take a picture of the fountain there and a picture of the snack bar (for Mollie, since she loves snacks)
• We then headed off the Trevi Fountain, down Via Tritone. We missed the turn for the fountain and wind up in the Piazza Colonna, which is under construction. There some very helpful poliza who pointed us in the correct direction and we were off again to the Trevi Fountain
• At the Trevi Fountain (which is under construction) we were impressed by the beauty.
• After this sight we starting heading towards the Spanish Steps. After a few wrong turns and short (long?) cuts, we found ourselves by the McDonalds (it is exactly where I remember it being in 1990, but it has been remodeled and does not look like a McDonalds inside) at the base of the very wet Spanish Steps. Apparently they had just been hosed down for cleaning, so there were only a few places to sit down where the sun had dried them off.
• We then climbed the steps and took in the breath taking view from the steps of the steps.
• We then consulted the map to determine our next stop. We started on direction then went in another. We were at the entrance to the Villa Medici, but did not go in, instead we decided to descend back down the hill.
• Around 1045, we were both feeling a bit hungry so we stopped in a café for some pizza and another cappuccino. We had a delicious sausage pizza and an alright Potato pizza.
• Now that our batteries were recharched we decided to go to the Piazza Del Popolo.
• We zigged and zagged up a lot of side streets until we found ourselves on Via Del Corso, the 5th Avenue of Rome with a lot of large retail stores and a lot of window shopping. Luckily we continued on to the Piazza.
• Upon arrival, around 1130 we found a huge ceremony going on, which rumor had it included the Italian President. The grandstands were filled with people; there were soldiers and police on horseback in the Piazza and a security gate which went around the entire perimeter, so our entrance to this Piazza was not going to be in the cards.
  We walked around to see if we could get a better view and no dice.
• So after a short break upon a bench on the west side of the piazza, we headed down Via Di Ripetta towards the Mausoleum of Augustus and the Ara Pacis. We found a nice piazza across the street from the Mausaoleum and sat down to rest again
• We then heading back to the Spanish Steps to sit down and people watch. Nancy actually fell asleep on my shoulder for 10-15 minutes. Finally around 1230, we decided to trudge back (uphill of course) to the hotel to see if they had a room available for us. I am not sure what Nancy would have done if no room was ready at 1300.
• After being up for over 24 straight hours we were both very happy that the cleaning crew had just finished in Room 402 so upstairs we went to rest and take a siesta
  We request a 1530 wake up to ensure our siesta does not go on to long and help our bodies become acclimated to the 6 hour time difference
• Got a call from the kids around 1445 during our siesta, which made us both feel better knowing they survived the first night at Grandmas and Grandpas.
• Go back to the concierge, Luciano, at 4 pm to discuss taking a hop on/hop off bus tour around Rome to see the entire city in approximately 2 hours. We walk one block where we meet the blue Ciao Roma Open Tour bus, which takes us by multiple sites. It is a great way to not expend a lot of energy and see the entire city. Very refreshing since we get to sit on our keisters and enjoy the October air from the top of an open air bus, while a tour is giving in the headphones provided.
• Hop on the 1615, Hop off the same spot at 1815.
• Walk back to the hotel for a quick change of clothes before dinner.
• Giuseppe has made us a 1900 dinner reservation at La Matriciana a lovely little restaurant that has been there since 1870, that is no more than a 5 minute walk from the hotel.
  Brothers Fabio and Mauro run the restaurant and we ask for them upon arrival a few minutes before 1900. We are the first ones there as the Romans tend to eat their meals later. Since we are both exhausted we are fine being the only ones there. We start off with a Caprese Salad, Tomatoes and Buffalo Mozzarella, served with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The tomatoes are incredibly fresh and tasty and the mozzarella has an amazing, combine that with the oil and vinegar and we are off the races on our cuisine for the evening. We then share ha Penne Carbonara, which was suggest by Rachel Ray as the dish to get while in Italy. I emjoyed the dish, it wound up not being one of Nancy’s favorites, but enjoyed all the same. For entrees, I have the veal Osso Busco and Nancy has a beef with Garlic and oil dish. The Osso Busco is like butter and is falling off the bone with a light red sauce complimenting the meat. Nancy was not sure what to expect and it comes out and is quite good. The beef is tender and very much to her liking and had small plum tomatoes that added a wonderful sweetness to the dish.
• Decide not to eat desert there, but rather go hunt for a gelato place, since we seemed to pass a few dozen during the day and what seemed like 3-4 on the way from the hotel to the restaurant.
• Of course all the gelato places close at 8, so we find one on Republic Square which is still open. Nancy gets pistachio and Jeff gets zabione. Instead of going back to the hotel, we sit in Republic square, eat our gelato and watch people go by. All things considered a great end to a great day
• We go back to the hotel and retire around 2100
  

October 19 - Travel

The next few days will serve as my diary for our 10th anniversary trip to Italy. Please indulge me. My regular rants will return in November.

Here is the link to the Flikr Photos

• Car Service arrives 15 minutes late. We leave home at 115
• We stop at the gas station with horse to make sure we have everything
• We arrive at JFK and check in around 230.
• Have lunch at the airport, because we are flying business class we go to the American Airlines Admirals lounge for rest and relaxation before the flight boards.
• Nancy finds a place in the terminal where she can get a 10 minute manicure and a 10 minute massage before we board the plane. Jeff drinks two very good Bloody Marys in the lounge while he waits.
• Food in business class is good, but both of us feel rushed by the flight crew, almost like we have to jam the food down our throats, rather than relax and enjoy. Neither one of us are up for desert, so we pass
• Nancy gets a few hours of sleep on the plane, Jeff has almost none.